chi SPACCA’s Romanesco

spacca - spring vegetable contorni 2013

Lately, I’ve been going to the Mozza family’s newest addition, SPACCA, a little more than someone who is trying to “eat well” should be…

At least, that’s what I thought about indulging pretty enthusiastically in never-ending ribbons of smoky, salty speck, near bottomless glasses of Prosecco, and cuts of meat in caveman proportions. Not that that’s not “eating well,” but when you use that many pronouns and negatives in a single sentence, it’s not not not eating well either.


Not as confusing as Romanesco, which is basically broccoli that’s confused into thinking it’s cauliflower. Spacca roasts the pale green Romanesco florets and serves them with “crushed lemon bagna cauda,” a combination of olive oil, lemon, garlic, and anchovies. It is one of the greatest preparations of vegetables I’ve ever eaten in my life. I eat it every time I’m there. I don’t know what I will do when Romanesco is out of season.

The point of this is that I’ve been dining out at extremely meat-heavy SPACCA, and yet have still been able to “eat well” because of the salads and the vegetable “contorni.” Sure, you can’t really go to Spacca and only order two salads, shell beans, cavolo nero, artichokes, and of course the Romanesco, but…

But maybe you can.

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